Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.